Friday, September 16, 2005

Vatican! All I ever wanted! Vatican! Had to get away! Vatican! Meant to be spent alone!

People often tell me that I must go to Rome. Here I am. I think they are correct. Although it is a big, big city with what seems like only two metro lines, and difficult to find places to eat, and expensive entrance fees, it actually IS an attractive, metropolitan city. With lots of super cool looking people on Vespas and motorcycles. Not since that wild ride in London 5 years ago have I so wanted to ride one!

Because my last night in Venice ended quietly, I woke up around 6, and caught a 7:30 train to Roma Termini via Bologna Centrale. I slept, listened to my iPod, read Northanger Abbey the whole way, trying to figure out how I was going to stretch the small amount of cash in my wallet for my projected 3 days in Roma.

I have discovered that while wearing my full backpack, I hate almost any city I am in. My first few hours in Rome I hated. Hopping from hostel to travel agency to metro, to supermarket, my back killing me, sweating, eyeing everyone suspiciously as a potential pickpocket, the big city seems like a miserable, inhospitable place. I sometimes see other packbackers, often younger than me, and they look so at ease! So comfortable with where they are going! Not lost! While I feel like a wreck until!

It did all work out though. I found a hostel for an affordable price (23 Euro) which was actually a bit nicer than anywhere else I have stayed. Well decorated, clean rooms, not over crowded, a nice kitchen, nice bathrooms. Location, near the Vatican City, which is somewhat far from everything else, but who cares, I can walk!

And walk I did.

First to the Vatican City. I amaze myself that I had only half considered visiting it. Seeing such a grand piece of architecture in person is a completely different experience from seeing a picture in a book (which I think is not the case for sculpture -- Michaelangelo's Pieta that is housed inside St. Peter's Basilica was not particularly more impressive to me in person). The ceilings, that obnoxious baldaccino and the artwork all over the walls were though.

It put me slightly ill at ease, though. I was unable to escape being aware of the ugly side of the Catholic church. That is all I will say about that.

While asking a member of the Swiss guard if the Sistine Chapel accepts credit cards, I was spotted by two Canadian girls that had been my roommates in Cinqueterre. In a crowd of billions.

Long, long walk to southern Rome for a restaurant that my Let's Go Guide described as serving tripe. I could not resist, despite it being very far away. I got lost many times, and stopped at a market for a Fanta and a grapefruit.

Dinner was delicious though, and because they accepted credit cards (and I had been conserving cash all day), I splurged. Salad, Roman style tripe (best tripe I have ever tasted, including that at Cactus Taqueria), a bottle of wine, a bottle of mineral water, and an espresso. I felt fantastic and full. Fueled up for the long walk back home.

I walked through the old city, saw the Colliseum lit up at night, the Forum and a number of other Ancient Roman buildings. After purchasing some grapes for a snack, I got tired and lay down on some grass outside one of the ruins and looked up at the sky.

For one of the first times this trip, I started to have some of the types of reflections that I had expected to have from day 1. Something about Rome was better at creating some perspective on all the travels. While the place is a cliche, there was a certain authenticity to the ruins at night that I couldn't escape, despite the other tourists and cars rushing by. Of course, I have no intention of telling you all what I was actually thinking about!

I made it home safely, by following the river back to the area of my hotel. Exhausted, collapsed on my bed, showed my trip photos to my Mexican roommate and went to sleep.

I like Rome, I think. I am getting a slightly late start on the day because of waiting for internet, but I think I am going to try to see some of those ruins during the day time.

0 Comments:

Post a Comment

<< Home