O the wind is blowing, it hurts your skin, as you climb up hillside, forest and fen
Yesterday was the kind of day I was hoping for when I decided to go to southern Germany.
Sure, I have loved the cities I've visited: Warsaw, Berlin, Prague...
I've been looking for something not only small, but also outdoorsy. I remember fondly the days of hiking around Icelandic glaciers and seek the chance, just once more time before I hit the office life, to see forests, to breathe fresh mountain air, to say "Yes! I climbed to the top of that mountain!"
Angela and I stayed in Heidelberg one more day, but this time we crossed the river Neckar in search of the Philosophenweg, a path high above that overlooks the city and serves as a base for hikes up Heidelberg's "Holy Mountain." I only saw a few of the sites atop this mountain (as time and physical energy are limited), but that which I saw was green, and fresh and full of trees. Just what I wanted.
The path up to the Philosphenweg was narrow and steep, covered in moss. Reminded me of the narrow path I took in Lopud, one of the Dalmatian islands, that took me past stony walls and green floors (and a donkey) from one side to the other. This path alternated cobblestones and stairs. When we got to the top we met a group of German tourists who directed us in a direction (I have no idea if it was the best direction) up through a forest.
I loved this forest. I've been taking it too easy lately. Ever since I hit eastern Europe I've been spending too much time on buses and trains, sitting, eating sausages and drinking beer and coffee. Getting soft. Here, I got to run up the path, Heidelberg beneath me, the air chilly (but not enough to prevent me from getting super hot) until I hit an auditorium built during Hitler's reign (but Hitler only came to Heidelberg once, the Germans remind me) that was once a Celtic religious site. I took a few pictures and ran up and down the stadium stairs (partly so as to not be outdone by the old man who was running up and down for exercise).
Angela and I only had a little bit of time left in Heidelberg so we went back to the Irish pub from the night before and had an "Irish Breakfast" of sausage, bacon, eggs, tomato and potatoes. Although not German cuisine, this was yet another example of consistently satisfying food I've had in Germany.
We took a bus to the train station, said goodbye (although probably not for long, as we both ultimately end up in L.A) and I grabbed a train to Strasbourg and she back to Berlin.
Why Strasbourg you (and I, years later, trying to remember) ask?
I wasn't quite ready to leave Germany, but felt that I should be getting closer to Paris, as I need to be there sooner rather than later for my flight out and I have a lot that I want to do there. I kind of want to go to Munich, Cologne, Leipzig and Hanover, but not so much that I am willing to deal with another big city. Strasbourg's culture is a mix of French and German, so I get to cross over to France without entirely saying goodbye to Germany.
Besides, Joe Frank was born in Strasbourg, so it can't be that bad, right?
The train was that bad though. WAY too crowded. But full of students, so I was more energized by their "youthful energy" than uncomfortable since I was standing on a train for an hour. A girl let me put my bag next to her seat (again, proving that people from Heidelberg are nice) so I didn't have to hover over it the entire time and for the most part the other travellers (probably commuters) were smiley. I was in Strasbourg before I knew it.
My trip to Strasbourg began optimistically (as I liked the feel of the city and felt excited to be in Alscace) but the hostel suggested by Let's Go was full and it took me 3 hours to find a place to stay.
In the process, I went to an Internet cafe on the French/German border where I met some children (11 years old, but they say 11 funny in France (seven plus four?)) who were very excited to hear I was from L.A. "Do you know 50 Cent? Do you know Snoop Dogg? Tupac?" Of course, my answer was "yes." They were also very proud to demonstrate to me their English. One of them pointed to one of his friends and said "motherfucker" and the other responded by saying "suck my dick." I was very impressed.
I love my hotel, although it is costing me 40 euro a night. Yes, hotel. I couldn't find anything cheap so I chose the second cheapest option in the book. I get my own room, my own BATHROOM and....
A TV!!!! All the stations were in French, but I found an old Clint Eastwood movie (dubbed) that I left played (with the sound off) while I slept. I took a shower and brushed my teeth in peace and it felt like one of the most luxurious nights of my life.
And dinner? The Zen Cafe next door, featuring several Alsatian options. I noticed "pickled pork with potatoes" and was intrigued before I noticed that the German translation was "eisbein" which I tried in Berlin and (though I loved it) do NOT need to try again. I chose something else, not knowing what to expect.
Alsatian saurcraut (meaning, an entire jar's worth of saurcraut -- I've never had so much at once) and about 5 kinds of sausage. And some Alsatian wine. All of which was fantastic.
Yesterday was a terrific day. And today was even better. Shame internet is expensive and I have only 5 euros in my wallet.
Sure, I have loved the cities I've visited: Warsaw, Berlin, Prague...
I've been looking for something not only small, but also outdoorsy. I remember fondly the days of hiking around Icelandic glaciers and seek the chance, just once more time before I hit the office life, to see forests, to breathe fresh mountain air, to say "Yes! I climbed to the top of that mountain!"
Angela and I stayed in Heidelberg one more day, but this time we crossed the river Neckar in search of the Philosophenweg, a path high above that overlooks the city and serves as a base for hikes up Heidelberg's "Holy Mountain." I only saw a few of the sites atop this mountain (as time and physical energy are limited), but that which I saw was green, and fresh and full of trees. Just what I wanted.
The path up to the Philosphenweg was narrow and steep, covered in moss. Reminded me of the narrow path I took in Lopud, one of the Dalmatian islands, that took me past stony walls and green floors (and a donkey) from one side to the other. This path alternated cobblestones and stairs. When we got to the top we met a group of German tourists who directed us in a direction (I have no idea if it was the best direction) up through a forest.
I loved this forest. I've been taking it too easy lately. Ever since I hit eastern Europe I've been spending too much time on buses and trains, sitting, eating sausages and drinking beer and coffee. Getting soft. Here, I got to run up the path, Heidelberg beneath me, the air chilly (but not enough to prevent me from getting super hot) until I hit an auditorium built during Hitler's reign (but Hitler only came to Heidelberg once, the Germans remind me) that was once a Celtic religious site. I took a few pictures and ran up and down the stadium stairs (partly so as to not be outdone by the old man who was running up and down for exercise).
Angela and I only had a little bit of time left in Heidelberg so we went back to the Irish pub from the night before and had an "Irish Breakfast" of sausage, bacon, eggs, tomato and potatoes. Although not German cuisine, this was yet another example of consistently satisfying food I've had in Germany.
We took a bus to the train station, said goodbye (although probably not for long, as we both ultimately end up in L.A) and I grabbed a train to Strasbourg and she back to Berlin.
Why Strasbourg you (and I, years later, trying to remember) ask?
I wasn't quite ready to leave Germany, but felt that I should be getting closer to Paris, as I need to be there sooner rather than later for my flight out and I have a lot that I want to do there. I kind of want to go to Munich, Cologne, Leipzig and Hanover, but not so much that I am willing to deal with another big city. Strasbourg's culture is a mix of French and German, so I get to cross over to France without entirely saying goodbye to Germany.
Besides, Joe Frank was born in Strasbourg, so it can't be that bad, right?
The train was that bad though. WAY too crowded. But full of students, so I was more energized by their "youthful energy" than uncomfortable since I was standing on a train for an hour. A girl let me put my bag next to her seat (again, proving that people from Heidelberg are nice) so I didn't have to hover over it the entire time and for the most part the other travellers (probably commuters) were smiley. I was in Strasbourg before I knew it.
My trip to Strasbourg began optimistically (as I liked the feel of the city and felt excited to be in Alscace) but the hostel suggested by Let's Go was full and it took me 3 hours to find a place to stay.
In the process, I went to an Internet cafe on the French/German border where I met some children (11 years old, but they say 11 funny in France (seven plus four?)) who were very excited to hear I was from L.A. "Do you know 50 Cent? Do you know Snoop Dogg? Tupac?" Of course, my answer was "yes." They were also very proud to demonstrate to me their English. One of them pointed to one of his friends and said "motherfucker" and the other responded by saying "suck my dick." I was very impressed.
I love my hotel, although it is costing me 40 euro a night. Yes, hotel. I couldn't find anything cheap so I chose the second cheapest option in the book. I get my own room, my own BATHROOM and....
A TV!!!! All the stations were in French, but I found an old Clint Eastwood movie (dubbed) that I left played (with the sound off) while I slept. I took a shower and brushed my teeth in peace and it felt like one of the most luxurious nights of my life.
And dinner? The Zen Cafe next door, featuring several Alsatian options. I noticed "pickled pork with potatoes" and was intrigued before I noticed that the German translation was "eisbein" which I tried in Berlin and (though I loved it) do NOT need to try again. I chose something else, not knowing what to expect.
Alsatian saurcraut (meaning, an entire jar's worth of saurcraut -- I've never had so much at once) and about 5 kinds of sausage. And some Alsatian wine. All of which was fantastic.
Yesterday was a terrific day. And today was even better. Shame internet is expensive and I have only 5 euros in my wallet.
posted by Jed at 12:58 PM
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